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Beijing Reunion II

It was early in the morning on a Friday.  Really early.  Before 7:00.  I was on my way to work around ZhongGuanCun Road.  I was about to make a left turn in an busy intersection, when I saw them.  A man pushing a food cart was walking in the middle of the road between the cars.  That wasn’t so special.  What was special was that a child was walking about five feet behind him.  The man looked in his thirties, and the small boy was around eight.  Before I continue I must state that the following is my interpretation to what I have seen and watched carefully.  However, it is only an interpretation.  I can offer a few other interpretations, and yet the truth could be totally different.

Watching the two walk in the middle of the street brought many thoughts.  I thought that the father was working hard trying to make a living.  Then I thought, how come the child isn’t at school.  Then I thought it was dangerous to cross the street this way.  Then I thought the child was very well behaved, as he walked behind his father silently, at a short but consistent distance.  And then the father stooped, and the boy continued, and grabbed the father’s tank top for a second or two.  And then my glasses became foggy.

I don’t know what the story is.  I can only hope that the child made it home safe.

The next day, Saturday, was a very special day indeed.  We set to meet Suza.  Well, that’s not her real name.  Here’s the background.

When we were here in Beijing in 2006, we were looking for a house mad.  An Ayi, as they are called in Beijing.  We asked around, and stated clearly that we were looking for an English speaking woman.  We accepted the first woman to interview because the children liked her right away.  We asked her if she spoke English.  She said yes.  As it turned out, yes was probably one of a handful of words in English she knew.  But she stayed with us for the duration of our first Beijing tour.  Today, I remembered an anecdote that took place when Suza (her real name is Song Li) was working for us.

One afternoon, when I came back home one afternoon, Suza opened the door, and it was obvious that she’s been crying for hours.  I couldn’t understand what she was trying to tell me as she was sobbing, and my Chinese is extremely limited.  I called my assistant, and asked her to find out what the problem was.  After a few minutes of conversation with Lu Jia, I understood the following.  Suza had received a phone call from her brothers back home in a village a thousand miles south of Beijing.  Her brothers said that her mother was gravely ill, and chances are her days are numbered.  Suza realized that even if she left everything, and took the train (the train ride is about 18 hours), she won’t make it to say goodbye.

The next few minutes were critical.  I asked Lu Jia to get an airline ticket for Suza to travel, and within a couple of hours I had her driven to the airport.  She was at her mother’s bedside before midnight of that night.  To make a long story short, a few days later her mother recovered, and Suza came back home (train this time).  It was a different woman.  From then on, she became family, rather than the help.

When we left Beijing in 2008, there was a lot of crying, and a lot of missing.  Suza remained in our collective hearts, even though it was very unlikely that we shall ever see her again.  Today we did.

I had asked colleague at work to call her on Friday and invite her over for lunch today.  At “The Big Restaurant”.  When we arrived (early), she was already there sitting by a table waiting for us.  Suza was looking at the kids, who right away ran to her and hugged and kissed her.

Over a traditional Chinese meal, Suza told us everything that happened since we left, but honestly, only Dorit understood.  The rest of us just smiled.  It was a magical moment.

DSCF0633The_Big_RestaurantI must spend a moment or two to discuss “The Big Restaurant”.  When I came to Beijing in 2006, I was walking the streets to get to know the neighborhood.  I stumbled into this place which looked authentic.  Indeed, many restaurants in Beijing are filled with foreigners, serve for foreigners.  I wanted to experience Chinese food the way Chinese do.  I walked in.  I had all kinds of dishes.  Most were delicious.  The ones I really loved, I asked the waiter or waitress to right down for me in Chinese, and later asked my assistant to translate to English.  I gave this small menu to many people since, and I published it on the web a few years ago as well.  It’s time to do it once more.

This menu is not exotic, and it is not aimed for impressing visitors.  It has no strange ingredient or nontraditional animals.  It is common, flavorful, satisfying Chinese food.  In fact, some suggest that many foreigners like this food, well, so be it.

Just in case you were curious, we had ordered the following for our lunch

Here it is.  Enjoy it…

Many readers have used it, some commented on it.  I carry it in my wallet and I use as often as I dine in a restaurant that can’t offer a menu in English.  You’re welcome to add dishes of your own.  I promise to try them and re-publish…

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Cabbage Salad 凉拌白菜芯

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Chicken & Peanuts 宫爆鸡丁

Homely-Style Tofu 家常豆腐

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Fried Rice & Eggs 鸡蛋炒饭

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Sauteed Eggplants, Potatoes and Peppers 地三鲜

Ribs In Pumpkin 金瓜蒸仔排

Beef & Peppers 茶干牛柳

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Sweet and Sour Chicken Breast & Yams 红薯煎鸡柳

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Garlic Sauteed Broccoli 蒜茸西兰花

Fried Sauted Mushrooms & bamboo shts 烧二冬

Braised Tofu with Mushroom and Veggies 红烧豆腐(不放肉,放蘑菇和青菜)

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Braised Eggplants 烧茄子(不放肉)

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Braised Green Beans 烧豆角(不放肉)

North Sichuan-style Cold Vermicelli 川北凉粉

Fried Asparagus 青炒芦荀

Pumpkin 南瓜

Pine nuts with sweet corn 松仁玉米

Sweet Potatoes in syrup 拔丝红薯

The Adjustment Bureau

I am not a movie critic. In fact, if I was one I would at best make the annual third grade bulletin of an elementary school in a third world country. The reason is simple. I can easily connect, get emotional, even shed a tear, to almost any film. Watching a film with my wife could easily turn into a weeping session. Don’t get me wrong, I simply hate the films recommended by professional critics. They annoy the hell out of me. I have pre-requisites that they apparently don’t share. My short attention span makes sure that any film beyond two hours is off limits, or has to become a miniseries. Films with bad endings, significant lesson learning, moral values, extended nature scenes with nothing really going on – all those don’t qualify. I mean, I’m willing to watch nature on mute, but it doesn’t qualify as film. It qualifies for NGSP (National Geographic Sleeping Pill).

I saw The Adjustment Bureau (http://www.imdb.com/title/tt1385826/) the other day. It qualified. Of course it qualified for the obvious reasons: good looking actor (Matt Damon) and actress (Emily Blunt), a thrilling story, excellent acting and directing. Even New York City looked attractive in this film. But for me the one most interesting and thrilling part of the movie was its presentation of the “what if” concept.

Everyone has the feeling sometimes that they have a fork in the road. The fork in the road could be minor (I can’t decide between Chardonnay or Cabernet Sauvignon to go with my economy class airline dinner), or major (what to name your child, whether to accept a job offer, marry your girlfriend…). Of course, with few exceptions, we do choose the wine, name our children and marry our girlfriends. But what if we chose differently? Would the different choice come with consequences? How many times do we say, what if I did this instead of that, where would I be today? Naturally, nobody knows. The ones who think they do know are either mad or lying. But the thought is still intriguing.

In the movie, an idea is presented (don’t worry, I won’t give away enough to steal your enjoyment, besides, I want to watch it again myself). The idea that there’s a Grand Plan. Not like the one we joke about when someone is clueless and we ask what’s the Grand Plan. A plan that is actually written by a Higher Authority (not Hebrew National), and is followed to the letter with the help of an army of soldiers (or angels) whose job is to make adjustments (hence the Adjustment Bureau) in order to return to plan. Indeed, the idea of Free Will is discussed slightly and shortly in the film.

In short, a great film, interesting, thrilling, and spectacular. Not only Emily Blunt is spectacular, everything else is spectacular as well. If you have a chance, see it.

Curling?

Two days ago I went out with a bunch of really nice people and we played Curling in what’s considered to be the most famous Curling club in China.  Three days ago, I had no idea what Curling was, nor did I know that it’s played in China, that China has a national Curling team.

The story goes this way.  A Team Building event was planned a while ago, which I accepted, completely ignoring the fact that Curling was involved.  I may have noticed the term, but quite possibly dismissed it.  Two days ago we all met downstairs and boarded a bus.  In the bus we split to seven teams, four to five members each.  The teams were named and a slogan was adopted by each of the teams.  And then people started to talk about Curling again, and I started to understand what this was about.  I’m confessing ignorance here, please don’t pass judgment.

We came in to a large conference room where fruit and tea were served.  Cherries are excellent this time of year.  One of the staff spoke about the history of the game and its rules.  Thankfully, my friend and colleague was translating for me the important things.

CurlingCurling is played on ice.  There are lanes (similar to Bowling), and Rocks (similar and as heavy as Bowling balls).  On one end of the lanes the players of the two competing teams stand, and at the other end there are a few circles, one within the other.  The objective is to slide the rocks as close to the inner circle as possible.  The winning team has the most balls closest to the inner circle.

Sounds easy.  Indeed.  On the bus going in I was picturing myself sliding rock after rock into the inner circle to the loud applause of the audience.  Neither happened.  I barely could stand on the ice, much less could I slide a rock anywhere, inner circles?  I was thankful for not skidding and breaking my head against the ice.

But after an introduction, the instructor placed each of us on the ice and showed us the motions.  At first almost everyone got it wrong.  But surprisingly, as we played more, the shots started to become more accurate, better balanced.  The most significant difference between Curling and Bowling, is that using too much force (as far as I know) should not present a problem in Bowling.  Playing Curling, though, if one throws the rock just a little too hard, it slides to the other side and touches the other end of the lane and becomes invalid.  If it touches either side of the lane, it’s invalid.  If it touches the other team’s rock before a certain point in the game it’s invalid.  And of course if you lose your balance and lay flat on the ice with the rock someplace else, both you and the rock become invalid.

We were really getting into it, skidding, sliding, cheering and smiling at each other.  Without noticing it, it turned out that we were not only learning to Curling, we were learning each other.

The activity was followed by a ceremonial trophy giveaway.  My team came in fourth, no trophy, but lots of fun.  Then we went to a traditional Chinese dinner.  Traditional in the sense that rice and noodles were served only when there was absolutely no room on the table for even a small plate, and when everyone was completely full with the delicious food served before.

Well, I’d have to say that I had a wonderful time.  And while chances are you won’t see me playing Professional Curling anytime soon, I do recommend the experience.  It was fun, it was competitive, and yes, it was freezing.  With the Beijing summer just outside, this was a good thing.

Here I Go Again – Literally…

It’s been months since I blogged. I can’t say exactly what caused me to stop writing, all I know is that one day I was sitting in front of a blank screen. I stared at it, and it stared back. I tried to force it, but it didn’t budge. It started blank and so it remained. For months. There could be many answers to why I quit writing. I won’t list the all, but they all seem to classify as “fork in the road”. Actually, forks, as in many, forks in the road. Looking at my father’s deteriorating situation, he has Parkinson, was not helping. An elderly man, who was always handsome and well groomed, who mastered many languages (French, Hebrew, Spanish to name a few) became dependent for the very basic needs. He can’t eat, wash, or shave on his own. But most amazingly, he lost the ability to speak. With all the rest going on in my life like selling the house, looking for a new one, work, life, I guess I just didn’t find it in me to sit and write.

Two months ago I arrived in Beijing. Not for a visit. To stay. In a dinner with some good old friends (), I was asked why I stopped writing. My immediate response was that when I started writing a few years back I always felt that people actually cared about what I had to say. I lost that feeling, I said. The three people around me said right away that they actually WERE interested in what I had to say. Now THAT is an incentive. So here I am again, saying something, hoping that for whatever it’s worth, someone will find it interesting.

Last year I wrote about my surgery. At the time, the responses I received were outstanding. From congratulations to inquiries, I do believe that I have changed the course of my life with that surgery, and there’s a good chance that I have made a difference in someone else’s life. One that I know of at least decided to go with a similar surgery after reading my experience. It was a good feeling. As for how I am doing? I lost about 35 Kg (about 80 Lbs.), and I define my current condition as critical but stable. I’m not putting on any weight, but I’m not losing either. I’m happy though, about my weight that is. I’m not aspiring to look like Vin Diesel any more…

Back in China for two months, the most difficult part is being away from the people I love. I don’t know how many of you spent time away from your loved ones. But those who know me, for sure know that I’m always away from the people I love. Having half my heart in New Jersey were my older girls Keren and Tamary are, and now the other half over in Israel, I can state categorically, I’m here in China, and my heart is split between two other continents. But this is a temporary situation that will be over soon. I guess the one good thing that can possibly come out of such an experience is the strong realization that the family, immediate and extended, is at the core. All the rest is more important or less important, but at the core, it’s the family. The people who make you feel that you’re after all, not alone.

Living on my own, working in a different country, different company, requires a lot of attention. New technology, new processes, new people. It all takes an outstanding amount of energy. I have to admit, it leaves very little time for fun. Still, almost everyone needs to do something for relaxation. For me, in the last two months, it was DVDs. Having a multitude of channels in Chinese is great, but provides no entertainment whatsoever, as I hardly understand a word. The only English speaking TV station I have here is CCTV. And while CCTV is surprisingly good, even compared to CNN or Fox News, it’s hardly entertaining. DVDs, however, is a good form of entertainment. I always loved the movies, and unfortunately back in Israel, we didn’t get to go too often. I used some of the time to catch up on movies. And not surprisingly, I saw some real good ones. Salt, The Adjustment Bureau, Fair Game, Black Swan, Limitless, and Source Code to name a few. And forgive me for saying, I loved Freakonomics, the book. I even loved the sequel book (even though it was a shadow of the first one), but a movie? Are you guys crazy?

Back to China. There are advantages and disadvantages in doing something for a second time. The advantages are clear, you kind of know what to expect. I knew what the visa process would be like, and indeed it was. By the way, the second time around with Microsoft, and with the outstanding help of Santa Fe, it was actually almost painless. Yes, there are a lot of forms, a lot of passport photos, but it was predictable, and completion was even earlier than expected. Kudos Santa Fe. I got a cellular account, registered the children to school, and a few other things. Mostly painless. But the real surprise was Bank of China. I came back to a different branch, with my bank book, and it was as if I never left China. My bank account was reinstated on the spot. Again, chapeau!

Someone asked me yesterday if my Chinese is any different than the last time. I had to answer yes, certainly. It’s a lot worse. I can’t have a conversation, not even a very simple one. But I can be independent. I can travel from one place to another, and I can order in restaurants. And in all honesty, everything else would be a bonus. I was also presented with another question, frequently. Is China different than what I remember? And the answer is yes, certainly. It could be the country, the city, or it could be me. But my conclusion is simple: I don’t feel like a stranger here. I feel that the people are more accepting to foreigners, that the environment is more friendly to foreigners. A good example would be the subway. When I lived here back between 2006-2008 I only took the subway twice. Both times were to get to an Olympic event. Line 10 to Line 8. Fifteen minutes altogether, and it was a good experience. I credited it to the Olympics. And it’s 2011, and I take the subway to work almost every single day. The experience is amazingly good. It’s clean, frequent, reliable, and it definitely avoid the horrendous traffic outside. There’s only one drawback. During rush hours, a box of sardines would seem like a very attractive, spacious place to spend time. The train is so crowded, that to have a bag is considered to be a luxury…

Back in 2006, a colleague who was helping me to find a place to live told me that I should live in a foreigner-free compound. I thought about it, and decided that I wanted to live in a mixed compound. One that has foreigners as well as Chinese residents. When the family comes and it’s time to look for a place to live, we will do it again, look for a mixed compound. But currently, I live in an all Chinese compound, and the experience is good. Very good. The neighbors are nice, the house is clean and quiet. It’s a good place to live.

Working at Microsoft is different. It’s easy to sense that people are working on things that are affecting the entire population on the planet. It may sound a little bombastic, but if you just spend a couple of minutes thinking about it, you’d realize that it’s true. Everything we work on touches millions of people around the globe. Operating systems, phones, search, office tools, security, you name it. I must say that email software is an email software. Yet Microsoft Outlook is a fresh breeze compared to what I was working with in the past. Our building at Haidian District is brand new. It looks new and it feels new. It’s a great working environment.

As for me, I was nothing short of lucky. Fortunate. Steve Ballmer, Microsoft CEO, came for the grand opening of the new building. His visit was exhilarating.

MS_Ballmer_Resized

I know, it’s a small photo, and I’m kind of big.  But you’d have to take my word for it.  Behind me, on the red stage, speaking with pathos and vision is no other than Steve Ballmer, CEO of Microsoft.  After the grand opening, we had a one hour all hands meeting with Mr. Ballmer.  He spoke about Microsoft, about vision, about future, about China.  I’d take the risk of sounding boring, but it was really exciting.

What can I say?  An opportunity to use my absolute favorite word in the English language: Serendipity.  There are multiple ways to translate this word.  One suggests: “the accidental discovery of something pleasant, valuable, or useful”.  My personal favorite is simply “happy accident”…  Lets just settle for “fortunate coincidence”.

Of course, I must say something about the economy. But I should warn you: I know nothing about the economy. Probably like anyone else, possibly less. When I was here in 2008 I suggested that there was a real estate bubble here. I was wrong. In 2008 there was no bubble. Case in point, whoever invested in that real estate market in 2007 doubled their investment. At least. I was talking to a real estate agent the other day, and she said that the prices are still going up despite the government effort to curb them. She said that since taking a mortgage is too expensive, people are coming up with the cash. On the flip side, China’s economy is not only growing, its influence on the world economy is growing as well. Watching the news in the last couple of days I was following the Chinese President Hu in his trip to Russia, Kazakhstan, and the Ukraine. Clearly, China is delivering a clear message: it wants to play a bigger role in World Economy, and frankly, it should, and it will.

The prices here are a little higher than I remember but not by a whole lot. Just as an example, prices in Israel are a lot higher. Just in the last week, Israeli banned Cottage Cheese for being too pricey. Over $2.0 per half a pound strikes many Israeli as overpriced. Not to mention gasoline. The prices of gasoline in Israel may just be the highest on the planet. Actually, the price for a litter of gasoline equals the price of half a pound of Cottage Cheese. Just for comparison, the American price is a third that, and the Chinese half.

Two points for last. I am waiting to be reunited with my family, hoping to not be separated again. And finally, I’m not sure that this post means anything in terms of coming back to being a blogger. But I do know I hope so. Bless you all.

Yes, one last thing. If you like what I have to say, you’ll have to tell me…

Another Year

Another year is coming to an end. Many of my relatives, friends and acquaintances are walking around with feelings of optimism, almost euphoria. All directed at the new year that’s coming. There’s hope in the air, the hope that is used by salesmen to make their quotas and year end bonuses. The cheap cliché of “everything will turn out OK”, “everything will be just fine”. I know the feeling. I’ve been there. I also shared the hopes and feeling of optimism in many previous years. It’s catchy, it’s fun, and it keeps you going. After all, without hope, what’s left? Well, my dear friends, not this year. This year I find it hard to be happy, I struggle to be optimistic, and I find it particularly challenging to be hopeful. As what I’m seeing around me is not good. It’s not good at all, and it’s getting worse.

There’s so much evil around. Everywhere I look there’s bad and more bad. Wars, murders, rapes, abuse, trafficking of drugs, stolen goods and even human beings. People are less patient, less willing to help. It seems that many have turned to jungle animals. People are not tolerant to the different, to the foreign.

Admittedly, the media is communicating all this evil. People who expose themselves to the news may subject themselves to quantities of evil completely intolerable by human beings. In fact, it may be quite possible that there’s some cause an effect here: good people exposed to large quantities of evil in turn become more tolerant to evil and then turn evil themselves. Is that completely bogus? I’m not completely sure. Possibly some Ph.D. student in some lucrative private university will run an experiment and report the results in some serious magazine. And then, maybe then, someone will subject the media (who is extremely covered by “Freedom of Speech”) to some stricter rules about exposing the global population to graphic violence and evil. I doubt it, but I’m still hoping.

On a completely unrelated topic. I am a proud Israeli. I have undeniable roots here: my father was born here, my mother escaped here following World War II. I believe that most people are inherently good. Most are law abiding, caring parents and friends. And yet, living in Israel, one cannot ignore anymore the fact that the country is going, actually running, in the wrong direction. I could write pages and pages about the inability to form a stable government that’s not sectorial, the inability to promote peace with the Palestinians, to enforce the law. Many good people I talk to these days are anywhere between disappointed to disgusted with the way things are going.

And to top it off, today is a very happy day, and at the same time an extremely sad day in Israel’s history. President Moshe Katsav, the former President of the State of Israel was convicted of rape and sexual harassment. Happy and proud that the judicial system worked. Sad and extremely upset that a person who once stood at the top of the pyramid, who was representative of all Israeli citizens, Israeli Citizen Number One, is no more than a rapist and a sex offender. Shame on him. Shame on us.